The Queen’s Bath, a freshwater cave near Kiholo Bay on the big island of Hawaii near Kona

Crossing giant fields of lava on our cross-country trek to find Kiholo Bay and the sea turtles

Kiholo Bay is a beautiful place that requires some walking to, so despite the fact that we saw about 5-10 sea turtles per hour, we only saw two other people during our two days visiting this place located near Kona on the big island of Hawaii. Turtles seem to like the confluence of fresh water into the sea. So look for places along the coast with springs or small rivers entering the ocean and that is where you are likely to find the turtles.

One of the things I really wanted to see when we went to Hawaii, was to see turtles up close. I thought it might be a little hard, but after one day here with no other people I had my sea turtle fill for the trip. Kiholo Bay is a beautiful place that requires some walking to, so despite the fact that we saw about 5-10 sea turtles per hour, we only saw two other people during our two days visiting this place located near Kona on the big island of Hawaii.

The famous Waipi’o Valley on the Big Island of Hawaii. An uber steep, 4 wheel drive only (though it is paved and you could make it with a small car with a good transmission) road is the only way in or out. It boasts an awesome black sand beach and a scenic waterfall that was dry when we got there. A hiking trail switches back up the cliff on the far side of this beach into true wilderness.

The Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden near Hilo. This giant Botanical garden was a real treat with some crazy looking plants, and this coming from someone who really would normally not be impressed by this sort of thing.

The Hawaii tropical botanical Garden near Hilo. This giant Botanical garden was a real treat with some crazy looking plants, and this coming from someone who really would normally not be impressed by this sort of thing.

Fruit stands dot the roads.

Fresh Coconut is one of my wife’s favorite foods, and there was plenty to go around.

Eucalyptus forests abound in Hawaii. These non-native trees were originally brought in from Australia and the Philippines as a plantation crop, for wood pulp, but were not profitable on Hawaii, so the fast growing invasive species soon choked out native trees and plants on entire hillsides on the eastern side of the island.

Rainbow over the airport in Hilo as planes come in for landings.

Rainbow over the airport in Hilo as planes take off.

Rainbow over the Japanese gardens in Hilo, where a clock stands stopped at 1:04 am. After a second devastating Tsunami struck here with a 20 foot wave at 1:04 am in 1960, the state prohibited residential rebuilding in the twice affected areas, turning much of the land into public parks.

The Japanese gardens in Hilo, where a clock stands stopped at 1:04 am. After a second devastating Tsunami struck here with a 20 foot wave at 1:04 am in 1960, the state prohibited residential rebuilding in the twice affected areas, turning much of the land into public parks.

Big Banyan trees near the Japanese gardens in Hilo, where a clock stands stopped at 1:04 am. After a second devastating Tsunami struck here with a 20 foot wave at 1:04 am in 1960, the state prohibited residential rebuilding in the twice affected areas, turning much of the land into public parks.

The farmers market in Hilo is the place for deals on good food. 6 papaya for a buck. Can’t beat that!

Entrance to the touristy Kaumana Cave near Hilo on the big island of Hawaii.

Entrance to the touristy Kaumana Cave near Hilo on the big island of Hawaii the lava drippings had crumbled and people defaced the entrance by carving into the stone. Jerks!

Swimming in Wai’ale Falls on the big island of Hawaii near Hilo.

The highlight of our trip, the utterly pristine lava tubes of Emesine Cave, a remote 1 mile hike inside the tube on the big island of Hawaii. Plan a full day adventure for this and don’t be stupid. This is a for real hike out and back, a hard search to find the opening, and parts of the roof could collapse on you at any moment. Lava tubes usually only survive a few hundred years and this one is utterly pristine, so keep it that way!

The highlight of our trip, the utterly pristine lava tubes of Emesine Cave, a remote 1 mile hike inside the tube on the big island of Hawaii

The highlight of our trip, the utterly pristine lava tubes of Emesine Cave, a remote 1 mile hike inside the tube on the big island of Hawaii

The highlight of our trip, the utterly pristine lava tubes of Emesine Cave, a remote 1 mile hike inside the tube on the big island of Hawaii.

Sunset and waves crashing along the coast of lower Puna on the big island of Hawaii.

The cleanest air in the world is supposedly at Cape Kumaukahi Point on the big island of Hawaii. Apparently the air currents that travel over this point cross over 3000 miles of open sea and nothing else before reaching here. Scientific instruments are scattered here and there taking air quality readings, and there are some cool hot springs, called the Champagne Pond that go right into the ocean and where sea turtles like to hang out.

The cleanest air in the world, a natural hotspring flowing into an ocean bay, and some local brew. Oh, and no people, like ever! It’s no surprise adventurous folk like the Big Island so much.

Since flowing lava is currently not visible, the next best thing, is to view Halema’uma’u Crater by night at Volcanoes National Park from the observation deck at the Jaggar museum on the big island of Hawaii. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Night shot of Milky Way galaxy and Halema’uma’u Crater on Hawaii. Out of three days here, we had one mostly clear night when all these pictures were taken.

Since flowing lava is currently not visible, the next best thing, and if you have never seen a living volcano before, a truly spectacular thing, is to view Halema’uma’u Crater by night at Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Desolation trail at Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Ki’lauea Iki trail through the old crater floor in Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. It amazes me that in my lifetime, this was a frothing see of molten lava that people just drove up to and had a few beers while watching. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Ki’lauea Iki trail through the old crater floor in Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. It amazes me that in my lifetime, this was a frothing see of molten lava that people just drove up to and had a few beers while watching. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Lava fields cover old roads in Volcanoes National Park. It amazes me that in my lifetime, this was a frothing see of molten lava that people just drove up to and had a few beers while watching. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

There is a wonderful petroglyph field along Chain of Craters Drive near the ocean in Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

Friendly Ernest the Goat at the Volcano Garden Arts center near the entrance to Volcanoes National Park on the big island of Hawaii. Cafe Ono is also on the grounds and is hands down the best restaurant in the area. One of my main goals was seeing lava moving down to the sea, unfortunately at present the lava flow on Hawaii is tiny and on inaccessible private property.

A turtle lounges in the sand of the Punalu’u black sand beach on the big island of Hawaii.

Famous green sand beach near south point on the big island of Hawaii. Before crossing over to dirt roads, there will often be locals offering a $5 “passage” fee to transport you in. If you do not have a high clearance 4×4, and even if you do, but are not an experienced off-roader, PAY THE FEE. I have been driving 4×4’s since my dad taught me to drive on sand bars when I was 13 and this was touch and go in good weather. So many deeply rutted tracks constantly diverge and then occasional end in cliffs or holes or other impassible spots. As a general rule, if you drive yourself as we did, stay on the highest tracks.

Famous green sand beach near south point on the big island of Hawaii. Before crossing over to dirt roads, there will often be locals offering a $5 “passage” fee to transport you in. If you do not have a high clearance 4×4, and even if you do, but are not an experienced off-roader, PAY THE FEE. I have been driving 4×4’s since my dad taught me to drive on sand bars when I was 13 and this was touch and go in good weather. So many deeply rutted tracks constantly diverge and then occasional end in cliffs or holes or other impassible spots. As a general rule, if you drive yourself as we did, stay on the highest tracks.

Famous green sand beach near south point on the big island of Hawaii. Before crossing over to dirt roads, there will often be locals offering a $5 “passage” fee to transport you in. If you do not have a high clearance 4×4, and even if you do, but are not an experienced off-roader, PAY THE FEE. I have been driving 4×4’s since my dad taught me to drive on sand bars when I was 13 and this was touch and go in good weather. So many deeply rutted tracks constantly diverge and then occasional end in cliffs or holes or other impassible spots. As a general rule, if you drive yourself as we did, stay on the highest tracks.

Heading away from South Point, the landscape is rolling fields and farms.

St. Benedict’s Catholic Church near Honaunau, the more famous of Hawaii’s two painted churches. St. Benedict’s dates back to between 1899 and 1904. Father John Velge painted the myriad frescos on the walls and roof and local volunteers lovingly maintain it.

St. Benedict’s Catholic Church near Honaunau, the more famous of Hawaii’s two painted churches. St. Benedict’s dates back to between 1899 an d1904. Father John Velge painted the myriad frescos on the walls and roof and local volunteers lovingly maintain it.

Dolphins playing in Honomalino Bay on the big island of Hawaii. Monique and I really wanted to swim (naturally) near dolphins. The big island of Hawaii is fairly famous for hosting pods of dolphins in its many secluded bays that “sleep” by circling the bay during the day in a sort of autopilot that passes for rest. It is important not to disturb these guys as that may make them tired and vulnerable to predators. We decided to tread water in what we guessed was their natural path and let them come by us. In an hour of treading water, the dolphin pod passed us 3 times, once only 5 feet away, without altering their behavior.